salted butter tart

April 18th, 2010 § 11

I was lucky to be raised in a home that resisted the margarine revolution. My maternal grandmother was a nurse who trusted her instincts, and they just didn’t trust margarine. Despite the wave of bad press that saturated fats started getting in the 1950s, when scientists (wrongly) connected the increase in heart disease to increased animal fat consumption, my grandmother felt that butter, being a natural product, must somehow be good for you.

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She would be happy to see the trans-fat backlash that’s going on. And probably point out that even though we eat a fraction of the amount of butter that people consumed when she was a girl, somehow everyone is fatter.

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Organic butter from the Jean-Noël Groleau farm in Compton, Quebec.

I imagine her laughing at this, her shoulders shaking in time to her deep, English cluck. She wouldn’t be surprised that recent research supports her common sense: butter is full of vitamins, short- and medium-chain fatty acids that are used up quickly instead of being stored as body fat, immune-boosting and cholesterol-lowering compounds, and a good half-dozen trace minerals.

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Sweet Butter Pastry. Tip: roll it out between two sheets of parchment to prevent sticking.

We found some fresh organic butter this weekend at the market and decided to use it to make the Salted Butter Tart from Jennifer McLagan’s award-winning book Fat. Despite its impressively few ingredients, the recipe is somewhat time-consuming, (there are too many steps to be listed here) but ultimately worth the investment.

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The filling is made from nothing but sugar, cream, and butter, boiled to a luscious near-burn and then poured into a crust so crisp it practically shatters in your mouth. The salted toffee filling is unbelievably smooth, with an intensely buttery texture and flavour. We’ll definitely be making this again soon.

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For the Salted Butter Tart recipe, see Jennifer McLagan’s book Fat.

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