The asparagus at the market this weekend was from California, instead of Peru, which means that spring has finally made its way to the Northern hemisphere. Here in Montreal, we’ve had almost two weeks of non-stop sun and double-digit (Celsius) temperatures, and there are little green crocus shoots poking up through the ground. It seems like spring might actually come early this year.
asparagus and preserved lemon
This risotto is a celebration of the verdant flavours of asparagus, pea, fennel, and mint, all highlighted by the golden glow of preserved lemon. You can replace the preserved lemon with the zest of a whole fresh lemon, but you’ll lose the wonderful mellowness that preserved lemon imparts – an almost candied quality that adds delicious warmth to this luscious bed of buttered comfort. We love this with grilled shrimp, but well-seared scallops, or fillets of black cod or sea bass will also do very well.
Fresh peppermint
Arborio rice
Preserved lemon and spring vegetable risotto with grilled Pernod shrimp
Serves 6 to 8 as a main course with the shrimp. Plan for 4 shrimp each.
For the risotto
¼ C olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
1 small fennel bulb, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tbsp.)
fine sea salt to taste
2 C Arborio rice
½ C Pernod or other anise aperitif
½ C lemon juice
6 to 8 cups hot chicken stock
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
½ C mascarpone
2 tbsp. finely diced preserved lemon rind
¼ C coarsely chopped mint leaves
2 C peas
1 bunch of asparagus, cut into 2-inch lengths and blanched in salted, boiling water
freshly ground white pepper
For the shrimp
24 to 32 large, de-veined shrimp, shell on
3 tbsp. olive oil
2 tbsp. Pernod
3 cloves garlic, minced (about 3 tsp.)
zest of half a large lemon
2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary leaves
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. black pepper
NOTES: Depending on the saltiness of both your stock and the preserved lemons, you may need to use up to a tablespoon of salt in this recipe. It’s best to add a little at a time throughout the process, tasting as you go, and seasoning one last time if necessary before serving. You can replace the preserved lemon rind with the zest of a large lemon, but reduce the amount of lemon juice by half if you do.
1. In a shallow pan just large enough to hold the shrimp, mix the shrimp with the oil, Pernod, garlic, zest, rosemary, salt and pepper. Let the shrimp marinate at room temperature while you make the risotto.
2. Prepare all of your risotto ingredients: blanch the asparagus, heat the stock, chop and measure everything out, placing it all close to hand by the stove. Once you start stirring risotto, there’s no stopping.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven. Add the onion, fennel and garlic and sweat over low heat for about 10 minutes, or until soft and translucent. Season with salt about halfway through.
3. Add the rice and raise the heat to medium high. Stir to coat and slightly toast the rice for about 3 minutes. You should hear a lively crackling in the pot. The rice will take on a shiny, translucent coat.
4. Add the Pernod and lemon juice to the rice and continue stirring until the liquid is almost completely absorbed.
5. Add a ladleful of hot stock to the rice and continue stirring. It’s important to regulate the heat at this point. The rice should neither boil vigorously nor cook too slowly. You’re looking for an even, medium heat that gives the rice a billowy loft and brings some bubbles to the surface.
6. As the stock is absorbed, continue adding it by ladlefuls and stirring. If you watch carefully, you’ll see that toward the end the rice really gives itself over to the liquid, releasing its starch to make a kind of cream. Stop incorporating stock once the rice is creamy but still al dente, cooked but not too soft. This can take between 20 and 30 minutes, and between 6 and 8 cups of stock.
7. Remove the risotto from the heat, and immediately fold in the butter, mascarpone, preserved lemon rind, peas, several grinds of white pepper and most of the mint (save some for garnish). The heat of the risotto will cook the peas. Stir slowly to blend, check a final time for seasoning, and carefully fold in the asparagus. Put a lid on the risotto and let it rest while you quickly grill the shrimp. The risotto will expand slightly in volume, and take on a marvellous sheen.
8. Grill or broil the shrimp for about 60 seconds on each side, or until the flesh is completely opaque.
9. Top each serving of risotto with 4 shrimp, garnish with mint and a flourish of pepper, and serve.
This looks great! I started preserving my own lemons a few weeks ago and they should be ready soon, so I’m starting to find recipes to use them up. I love the sound of this combo!
yummers. looks delish!! Rob…LOVE these picks (did you up the blacks and whites? Too beautiful!)
Thanks! Yes, I shot these on white, played with the contrast, and brought down the blacks. I’m still experimenting with different looks fir the photos, but I’m really happy with these shots.
I can’t wait to try this recipe!
Also, the photography is beautiful, as always.
Since I’m allergic to shrimp, I wonder what would make an acceptable substitute to put on top: perhaps another cup of mascarpone? Oh wait, you’ve already suggested alternatives. Rats, foiled again. Man, this looks good, and I’ve long been searching for an excuse to preserve lemons.
seeing a lot of risotto on the sites lately… but Mascarpon in the rice is incredible idea!
Victrola,
Two words: black cod. Also known as sablefish, but don’t try wearing it as a stole.
D.
This looks so good! Tell me more about preserved lemon — do you have your own special method or a good resource you can recommend?
Preserved lemons are basically lemons and salt. Nearly cut 6 or 8 lemons in half lengthwise, then make a second cut perpendicular to the first, exposing four quarters of lemon flesh. Generously salt the lemon flesh with kosher salt, then stuff the lemons into a jar just big enough to hold them. Really pack them in, so that they release lots of juice. They need to be submerged, so add more lemon juice if necessary. That’s it. Shake the jar every few days and keep topping up the juice if necessary. After about three weeks your lemons are ready to go. If you’re feeling adventurous, throw in some coriander seeds, pickling spice, Old Bay, cloves, fennel, whatever. We live next to a little shop that sells perfect little preserved lemons from North Africa, so we buy ours. We recently made a lifetime supply of lime pickle though, which uses limes preserved in exactly the same way.
Jon, I’ll bring some of this lime pickle in May. You’ll want to wear it as cologne.
I’ve had preserved lemons sitting in my cupboard for over a year and have never known what to do with them. I think I have my answer. Just found your blog on Tastespotting – I’ll be back!
winner!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/beautifulbikes/4576146513/